For many travelers, Bhutan holds a special place on the bucket list—an elusive kingdom where ancient traditions blend with modern life, and time seems to slow down. Since 2010, Northwest Rafting Company has made it a tradition to visit this magical Himalayan country every fall. Road improvements are connecting its rural mountain villages to bustling cities, opening up more opportunities for adventure in this serene, unspoiled land.
This year, we decided to take things up a notch and explore something special: a multi-day river trip on the Puna Tseng Chhu (River), located just south of the iconic Punakha Valley.
The River: A Hidden Gem in the Heart of Bhutan
We launched a few hours south of Punakha after driving through remote villages, an abandoned hydroelectric dam project, and the upper reaches of the Puna Tseng Chhu. The vastness of the valley is jaw-dropping—it’s hard to imagine how massive the reservoir would have been had the dam been completed. As you approach the Sunkosh Bridge, the river begins to settle, and the river heads south away from roads.
Soon after putting in, the river transforms into a playground of waves, with thrilling Class II and III rapids with lush, sandy beaches—perfect for a swim or a relaxing break after navigating the rapids. A few miles in, we reach the biggest challenge of the trip: All Man Out, a Class IV rapid with big waves and holes.
You have the option to scout it from either side of the river, but the right bank offers the best view, with a path that lets you walk the entire length of the rapid for a close-up look. If you’re not feeling up to the challenge, this is where you can opt to portage around the rapid and catch your breath before hitting the water again.
Wildlife: Nature at Its Best
As you float deeper into the river’s canyon and through the Phibsoo Wildlife Sanctuary, the landscape takes on a lush, almost otherworldly feel—think dense jungle, towering trees, and an abundance of wildlife. Overhead, you may spot vibrant Kingfishers darting through the air, graceful White-Bellied Herons stalking the riverbanks, and even the elusive Hornbill flying above. Keep your ears open too—you might hear the mischievous chatter of monkeys in the treetops or catch a glimpse of them swinging from branch to branch. If you’re truly lucky, you might even spot an elephant along the banks, their massive forms hidden among the trees.
Trip Highlights
One of the highlights of the trip is the incredible campsites along the river. Most of the camps are on sprawling white sandy beaches, perfect for setting up camp and playing games in the sun.
Along the way, we stopped at a remote village called Bara Gumti, where we had the chance to immerse ourselves in local culture. Our warm and welcoming host introduced us to traditional Bhutanese customs, including the process of making a fermented millet drink and chewing fresh betel nut—a mild stimulant that’s a popular part of village life.
It was fascinating to see the betel nut growing on trees and learn about its significance in the community.
A Unique Journey Home
After three unforgettable days on the river, it was time to head home. But instead of taking the usual route back through Paro, we chose an alternate path, driving through Phuentsholing, a bustling southern border town in Bhutan, before crossing into India and making our way to Siliguri. While India can feel fast-paced and overwhelming, Siliguri has a slower, welcoming vibe that made for an easy transition. From here, we hopped on a flight from Bagdogra Airport, heading to Bangkok and then back home, carrying with us memories of an incredible adventure in one of the world’s most enchanting places.
Our New Itinerary
We loved this trip so much that we’re bringing it back in a new “Mountains and Rivers of Bhutan” itinerary! The adventure kicks off with a few days of thrilling rafting and immersive visits to Bhutan’s iconic monasteries and dzongs, where you’ll soak in the rich history and spiritual beauty of the Kingdom. Then, we’ll hit the Puna Tseng Chhu for a 3-day rafting expedition, winding through lush valleys and past hidden villages.
Afterward, we’ll make our way back to Paro, where the iconic hike to Tiger’s Nest Monastery awaits. And finally, we’ll fly out from Paro to our next international destination.
